THE BULLET
Mortadella Bologna IGP
THE HISTORY
The origins
Mortadella Bologna has ancient roots and is considered the quintessential cured meat of Bolognese gastronomic tradition. Its origins lie in the ancient Etruscan Felsina and the Bonomia of the Gallic Boii, lands characterized by vast oak forests that provided abundant acorns for pig farming. From these pigs, an integral part of the local food culture, a tradition was born that spanned the centuries, transforming into the unmistakable Mortadella Bologna PGI, a gastronomic and cultural heritage recognized worldwide.
The name
The earliest evidence of mortadella is found in the Archaeological Museum of Bologna: a stele from the Imperial Roman era depicting, on one side, seven grazing pigs and, on the other, a mortar and pestle. This tool was used by the Romans to pound and mix meat with salt and spices, suggesting that the term “mortadella” derives from mortarium or murtatum, meaning “meat finely minced in a mortar.” Another fascinating hypothesis links the name to the Latin term myrtatum, from myrtle, an aromatic plant that was the main ingredient in an ancient sausage called farcimen myrtatum, mentioned by both Pliny the Elder and Varro.
Evolution
The first true mortadella recipe appeared in the early 17th century thanks to the agronomist Vincenzo Tanara, who precisely described the ingredients and processing methods, requiring a much higher fat content than is currently the case. In 1661, Cardinal Farnese sanctioned its uniqueness with an official proclamation, one of the first examples of regulations similar to those of modern DOP and IGP designations. For centuries, Mortadella Bologna was a luxury product, reserved for nobles and wealthy bourgeoisie, until the development of the cured meat industry, starting in the 19th century, made it accessible to all. Thus, from an elite food, it became a “democratic” cured meat, conquering the tables of the masses and becoming the most beloved cured meat in Italy.
Disciplinary
The “Mortadella Bologna PGI” designation is not an easily obtainable recognition: it is reserved exclusively for products that faithfully comply with the rules established by the production specifications, a set of rigorous standards that protect the quality and authenticity of the cured meat, guaranteeing consumers a unique and inimitable product.
The requirements of the Specifications concern fundamental aspects:
– Production area
– Raw materials and cuts of meat
– Processing
– Organoleptic and chemical-physical characteristics
– Controls